Saturday, 29 March 2014

Signed, Sealed, Delivered

Françoise in all her glory.
I wish to devote this post to the way in which I win my bread.  Twice a week for the past six months I have been mastering the art of delivery in the back-streets of Bordeaux.  Now, it’s all too easy to glorify the work of a delivery man: he is a porteur du pain, a bringer of bread, a feeder of the world.  It’s in giving food to others that he himself is fed.  It has even been claimed that Tesco Direct can trace its foundation back to the revolutionary work of Jesus’ disciples as detailed in Matthew 14:19 (“Taking the five loaves and the two fish… he gave them to the disciples, and the disciples gave them to the people.”).  But if we are to discover the real nature of delivery work, we must pass beyond this glamour and romance.

When I, le livreur, arrive at a client’s door, I am sweaty.  This is to be expected, seeing as I have likely just parked illegally, negotiated multiple auto-locking doors, run up several flights of stairs, and groped for the corridor’s light switch, all with a family’s weekly shop clutched to my breast.  I do sometimes worry that the appeal of organic vegetables might be diminished by their being attached to a panting foreigner, but needs must.  The physical challenge posed by a delivery is such that I sometimes think myself to have fallen into a sub-par episode of Gladiators; there’s no Ulrika Jonsson, but I do have a client who looks remarkably like Wolf.

Second to these domestic challenges, the next biggest barrier to a successful shift is transport.   The French have a nasty habit of driving on the right, whereas my brain tends to adhere to the Britannic school of motoring.  This culture clash made the negotiation of my first roundabout rather memorable; both for me, and for the French gentleman I nearly killed.  I’ve since found a simple yet effective solution1, and now consider myself positively European when in the cockpit of my van; I hardly ever swerve to the left, and have even been known to gesticulate angrily at stationary traffic.

I believe my boss to have noticed some of these British quirks when I joined the company, as I spent my first few shifts driving not one of the brand-new refrigerated Peugeot vans, but rather driving Françoise.  Françoise is a 1985 Renault Express who lacks power steering and functional indicators but who is gifted with a ‘choke’ and persistent smell of garlic.  Had she been human, one would likely have seen Françoise gulping cognac in a run-down Bordelais bistro.  Her face, lit by the light of a Gauloise, would crumple as she coughed up filthy joke after filthy joke, till eventually she’d lose her temper and throw a punch at a passer-by.  In short, Françoise was a shit.  The extent of her shittiness, however, was to remain unknown until the middle of a particularly difficult shift.  I had managed to get to the first five-or-so clients despite Françoise’s usual ploy of refusing to breach 25km/h.  I ran back from the fifth client’s house, very conscious that time was a ticking.  I jumped into the driver’s seat, thrust the key into the ignition, turned my wrist, and, nothing.  I tried again.  She spluttered, then nothing.  And again.  Nothing.  And so it was that Françoise point-blank refused to budge in the middle of my most stressful delivery round to date.  A lot of very hurtful things were said between us that evening under the setting sun, and, as I loaded my cargo into the rescue vehicle, I knew that things would never again be the same between us.  Indeed, it was the last time I ever worked with Françoise.  I’ve since been working with a much younger model, Delphine, who, despite her graceful curves, has never quite filled the spot of my garlicked drunkard.

When I do manage to arrive at a client’s door, the exchange that follows can be quite fascinating.  It’s not often we invite strangers into the heart of our homes in the way we do deliverymen.  Understandably, new clients are often put on edge by this foreign presence; the exchange of goods and payment tends to be clumsy and inefficient as the deliverer tries to help without imposing himself, and the client tries to receive help without losing control.  With practice, however, these exchanges can become quite beautiful2.  After weeks of rehearsal, each party has matured into his role and the client-livreur relationship flourishes.  The exchange of goods for a pre-prepared cheque becomes almost balletic in its efficiency; there’s one client who each week I see for 15 seconds before I am once again on my way.  But, for every ying there is a yang.  For every super-efficient client I have the pleasure of working with, there is an equally inefficient client who, week-in week-out, makes me contemplate suicide.  Or, at least, homicide.  Some clients like nothing better than to play hide and seek with their chequebook.  Others believe that I am out to short-change them, and so are careful to count every last sprig of thyme before paying.  No, Madame, of course I don’t mind you weighing your box of watercress.  Really, Madame?  There’s 500g?  Goodness!  That’s exactly the amount you ordered, you say? Well isn’t that a stroke of bloody luck?

It’s always important to respect the professional nature of a client-deliverer relationship, especially in France, where professionalism is a cult.  Children, however, often do not share this passion with their parents.  On one occasion, I was thanking a lady for her continued custom when her four year old daughter beamed at me: “Would Monsieur like to sit down and have a cup of tea with us?”  I saw her mother’s eyes fill first with amusement at the prospect of a delivery boy coming round for tea, and then with marked panic, as she remembered that this delivery boy was English and might well take up the offer.  Unfortunately, I was running behind, and so had to decline.  On a different occasion, a young boy plucked up the courage to offer me a carton of juice as I unloaded the artichokes onto the kitchen table.  Again not wanting to impose, I politely declined.  From the hurt in that boy's eyes you'd have thought I'd just shot the family pet, not turned down a Fruit Shoot.  Indeed, he was so scarred by my attempt at professionalism that he no longer acknowledges my presence on a Wednesday evening.  It would seem that the French nation’s professionalism is born of nurture and not nature.

So there you have it; my daily bread.  Granted, it's more white-sliced than organic-granary, but it strengthens the heart nevertheless.         
   

                                                                                                                                                                   
  1. A heartfelt Hail Mary followed by a decade of ‘Drive on the right, or you will die’ tends to do the trick.
  2. Beautiful for a delivery-connoisseur, that is, much as a bacterium might be beautiful to a molecular biologist, or a well cleaned toilet to a toilet attendant.  I’m afraid it’s almost certain you wouldn’t find my deliveries beautiful.    

Wednesday, 29 January 2014

The Monastery


At precisely 2.15pm on 30th June 2013 I found myself standing alone on the front deck of a Wightlink ferry as it pulled into Fishbourne Port, the Isle of Wight.  I had come to begin my gap year in earnest by spending 60 days in a Roman Catholic monastery.  Standing on that deck I tried to recall what had prompted me to apply for a ‘monastic internship’ at Quarr Abbey in the first place, but the exercise proved fruitless.  Doubt and regret were setting in.  What’s more, the whole docking had an ominous waft of Saving Private Ryan about it; perhaps I’d be gunned down by the Guestmaster or garrotted by a Postulant in the bloody shadows of the Solent, before reaching dry land.

The life of an intern would be like that of a monk in all but vows, habit, and tonsure.  The programme had been designed by the Benedictine community to provide young men not wishing to be monks, and who were not necessarily even Catholic, with an opportunity to construct sturdy foundations for future life.  I’d recently been emailed a daily timetable1 which differed considerably from that of my typical summer vacation2.  The whole affair was attractive in theory, and yet I feared its practice would prove repugnant.  

Well, I live to tell the tale, and whilst I won’t claim to have found Jesus in the vegetable patch, I will say that it was one of the best experiences of my life.  Here are some of the reasons why.

Silence
It turns out that monastic communities are quite big on ‘silence’.  Every night the 'great silence' began at the close of Compline and continued through until the celebration of Mass the following day.  We quickly learned that this silence was ‘great’ not so much in the ‘This is so much fun!! #lovin’summer2k13’ sort of way, and more in the ‘This is an extremely solemn undertaking that is not to be broken by any extra-liturgical chit-chat whatsoever’ sort of way.  It was therefore with more than a little trepidation that I approached a breakfasting monk one morning, feeling obliged to inform him that the monastery’s fence had been successfully negotiated by an entire herd of cows, which was now making its way steadily towards the Pilgrim Chapel.  He did not berate me for my impiety, but simply replied “Yes, that happens” before returning to his cornflakes, and to his silence. 

Outside 'the great silence', conversation was permitted neither at lunch nor at dinner.  As you might imagine, silent meals are, at first, excruciatingly awkward.  You feel all eyes to be watching your every mouthful, and you become painfully aware of just how noisily you chew.  Crudités were the stuff of the devil.  Whilst the set readings from The Rule and The Life of Saint Benedict might have helped to mask the mastication, they also introduced another, far more deadly, pitfall: the giggles.  One evening, we listened to an account of how the boy Benedict had made explode a water jar with a sign of the cross.  It’s safe to say that we interns did not meet one another’s eye for the remainder of that meal.

My relationship with silence changed over the two months for several reasons.  Firstly, I settled in, and realised the brethren were not at all interested in eating habits (pun intended).  Secondly, because we interns became accustomed to The Life of Saint Benedict (we hardly even looked up when the dragon arrived).  Thirdly, because silence began to gain a depth previously unknown.  The sight of habited monks, shrouded in silence, as they pass from shadow into light under the rising sun is something I could watch for eternity.  Only the Cantor could incense what was with his words. Lord, open my lips.  And my mouth will proclaim your praise.  These men were living a daily resurrection, and it was beautiful.

Silence was also liberating.  Conversation was no longer forced, and I could just be, enjoying the simple presence of others.  During the internship I took over 100 silent meals sitting next to the same monk.  Despite our mutual silence, I feel we got to know one another (I’ve heard similar stories about commuters who enjoy unspoken friendships on the way to work).  Silence was allowing these men to live out ordinary life on an extraordinary plane.

Minutiae
With so much time spent in the same routine, one’s attention inevitably turns to minutiae.  My former self was known to praise all these little things, but alas, this is All These Little Things- Round 2: Little Things That Make Me Want To Kill Myself.  Essentially, when you leave behind life’s more major worries (relationships, exams, money), some of the little things of everyday life really start to get on your tits.  I found myself getting irritated if a priest were to repeatedly use a fractionally-longer version of the Eucharistic prayer at Mass.  Whilst sweeping the cloister, I was really quite angry to see that the wind had retraced my steps in dust.  And no amount of ‘mood-lighting’ could have calmed my nerves after finding that a greasy film had formed on top of my first brew of the day.  I knew full well that this was all very silly, that none of it mattered, and yet, when in the confines of a monastery, perspective slips through your grasping fingers. 

So why was this a good experience?  Because I started to see how easily I could morph from being perfectly happy to being in a foul mood; I started to see just how enslaved I was to emotion; and I started to realise that I didn’t want to live like that.  The monastery is a perfect environment for implementing personal change.  When you find that a greasy film has formed on your cup of tea, you make a wilful effort to stay calm, and to control the irrational voice in your head that’s telling you to upturn it over Brother Simon.  And if you should fail, that’s ok, because you can try again tomorrow, and Brother Simon will have been given an exercise in patience.  I am certainly not saying that self-mastery was a fruit of my internship, but I am more aware of what’s going on within.  I imagine that after a lifetime of monastic internal war waging, the battles fought are less those of tea and dust, and more those of life and God.

Otherness
There was one episode in particular when monastic ‘otherness’ hung heavy in the air.  We interns had gone to St Cecelia’s Abbey to meet a real life nun belonging to a real life contemplative religious community.  Think Sister Act, pre-Whoopi.  It was with some apprehension that we were led by a laywoman into one of the Abbey’s meeting chambers.  This apprehension was considerably heightened when we were greeted by a set of sturdy iron bars running from one side of the room to the other, separating us from an empty chair.  We took our seats and waited.  One of us was trying to break the tension by musing on how best to fabricate a ‘Do Not Feed The Nuns’ sign, when suddenly a door beyond the bars opened, and in she came.  She was every bit a Bride of Christ.  

Her eyes beamed at us from her night-black habit as she shook each of our hands in turn through the grill.  And so we sat and talked and laughed.  It was surreal.  Here we were, laughing with a woman who would never step beyond these bars again.  What’s more, we interns were sipping tea and nibbling biscuits, neither of which had been provided for the Sister.  At first, I thought myself a captor, teasing his captive with the fruits of freedom.  But then I realised that the fire in her eyes was not Hobnob-hunger.  It was joy.  I don’t mean a vacuous joy, nor do I mean hysterical happiness; but here was a woman who would never again leave the Abbey, who had absolutely nothing to her name, who did little else each day than work and pray, and yet she seemed to be more alive than I was.  She was no captive, and I, no captor.  She was free in the fullest sense. 

God
For an article on monastic life I haven’t said much about God, nor do I intend to as it ain’t that kind of blog.  What I will say is that when you lead a monastic routine, even for two months, it’s no longer possible to hide spiritual laziness behind business; many preconceived notions about God and religion (be they orthodox, or less so) are obliged to change; and questions which are normally appeased by Facebook and chocolate might just emerge to look you in the eye.

I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to fully articulate what I lived at Quarr, nor do I feel the need to.  I’m just extremely grateful to have been afforded time with these men as they try to live heaven on earth.  

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I am, of course, indebted to the community of Quarr Abbey, as well as to Nathan, Laurie, and Tommy, who were my fellow interns.

1.
5.30am          Vigils (Service)
6.15am           Breakfast
7am                 Lauds (Service)
9am                Mass
10am              Outdoor Work
12pm              Lecture
1pm                Terce (Service)
1.15pm           Lunch
2pm                Tea-Time
2.30pm          Outdoor Work
4.30pm          Tea-Time
5pm                Vespers (Service)
7pm                Dinner
8pm                Compline (Service)
8.15pm           The Great Silence


2.
11.30am          Brunch
12.30pm         Loose Women
7pm                 Dinner
12am               Bed